Why and How I Double Cleanse

(plus my 4 fave cleansing oils!)

When it comes to skincare, I’ve always had a routine. And, because of my acne, I’ve pretty much tried it all – cleansers and creams from my dermatologist, Proactiv, a hodgepodge of products from Sephora and even a 5 step regimen from Chanel. One thing that wasn’t included in any of these regiments? Oil cleansers. 

I always assumed that I had acne because my skin was oily. Therefore, I also assumed that ANY OIL would make my “oily skin” more oily, which would make my acne worse. And guess what? I quite literally believed this for years. YEARS! So, imagine my surprise when I learned not only was my skin not truly oily (more on this soon) but the right oil would actually help – not hurt – my acne.

If this just turned your world upside down, feel free to take a minute. I know I did! Oil? On my skin? WHAT?! But seriously, once I started incorporating a cleansing oil in addition to my regular cleanser, my skin improved tremendously. Not just my acne, but my blackheads and pore size, too. But why?

Let me rewind and explain what I’ve learned.

Why Oil Cleansers Work

The cool thing about oil cleansers is they are based on the principle that like dissolves like. So, plant-based oil cleansers work their way into the skin, dissolving the natural oils that harden and clog pores. Then, the cleanser and the hardened skin oils are wiped away when the cleanser is removed (ideally with a gentle cloth or water, depending on the formula). Crazy right?

So, even though it sounds counter-intuitive, oil based cleansers are really great at removing skin of excess dirt, oil and makeup without irritating or overdrying. Which is incredibly helpful for people with true dry skin and is also a great option for those with blackheads, white heads and clogged pores…AKA yours truly.

How I Use Oil Cleansers

While a lot of people are big fans of the OCM (Oil Cleansing Method) which involves using oil as your primary cleanser, I personally have found the best results using an oil cleanser as the first step of a two step cleansing process. I know, I know, two steps seems kind of annoying but I promise it’s so worth it. It’s worth noting that I only do this at night – whether I’m wearing makeup or not! 

Why I Double Cleanse

Double cleansing was made popular by Korean skincare routines – and while I may not get on board with a 10+ step routine, double cleansing is definitely something I can do. Why? Double cleansing (first with an oil-based cleanser and then with a water-based cleanser) focuses on cleansing at the deepest possible level without being hard and damaging on skin. This is especially true on days I wear sunscreen and/or makeup. 

I used to use my regular cleanser as an all-in-one makeup remover and cleanser. I’m honestly not sure why, because every time I’d cleanse there was always leftover makeup coming off on my towel. So I’d just rub my face more. Sound familiar?

Here’s the deal: while some cleansers are capable of doing it all, that doesn’t mean they should! Leftover dirt, oil, sunscreen and makeup residue can create serious skin issues. That leftover residue on my skin was acting as a barrier so the rest of the skincare routine wasn’t able to properly absorb. The result? Congested skin and acne. On top of that, traditional makeup removers tug on skin and often have harsh ingredients that accelerate the aging process. So those are a no-go, too. 

The answer? Double cleansing. The oil-based cleanser clears make up and excess oil by drawing out impurities from the pores and the water-based cleanser removes any residue, sweat and dirt, leaving behind a clean, nourished and balanced face.

How I Double Cleanse

While oil cleansers are excellent at removing makeup, I actually use them on makeup free days too – it’s made a huge difference in my skin and significantly decreased my breakouts. Check out the pics below for my before and after results (and sorry for the creepy facial expressions!):

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To be clear, I’ve been double cleansing for some time but not when I don’t wear makeup. That’s a new thing and it’s really been the change my skin needed!

If utilizing two steps sounds like a pain, shift the narrative and think about it like a spa treatment! It’s two steps you’re taking to nurture and nourish your skin.

Step One: Cleanse With an Oil Based Cleanser

I pump the oil into my hands and gently massage it into my DRY face in small circular motions, starting with my chin, then my cheeks and nose, then my forehead and ending with my eyes. All of the impurities (including eye makeup) melt and dissolve. Depending on the cleanser, I either rinse with water or use a warm (not hot) damp cloth to exfoliate and remove the oils. I love this gentle microfiber option or these organic soft cotton cloths (c/o) that don’t stain!

Step Two: Cleanse With a Water Based Cleanser

Now that I’ve removed the makeup and yuck from my pores, I cleanse again. Here’s where it’s important to use a gentle cleanser (some of my faves here) that works well with your skin type (more on this to come). I usually start in the center of my face and work outwards and upwards. Because of the way the follicles fall on our faces, an upward and outward motion ensures I’m getting the deepest cleanse possible.

Now that we’ve covered the basics, here are my four favorite oil cleansers to kick off your double cleansing journey!

My Top 4 Favorite Cleansing Oils

True Botanicals Pre-Cleanse Oil

This was the first cleansing oil that I used and loved. It’s a blend of jojoba, sesame seed, apricot kernel and bergamot oil (that’s it!) and the light scent smells so luxurious. I always use a warm washcloth to remove this one, as it’s a bit heavier. The jojoba base is excellent for acne prone skin because it has a low comedogenic rating (doesn’t clog pores).

Biossance Squalane + Antioxidant Cleansing Oil

I freaking love this cleanser so much! I snagged it in a travel size to test it and am so sad that it ran out. I will definitely refill it once I finish my other cleansing oil. This one contains a blend of two different sugarcane-derived, sustainable squalane oils (my fave for all skin types) plus other nourishing ingredients that target stress and signs of aging to create a lightweight oil that can be removed with water. I apply to dry skin and rinse – no washcloth necessary.

One Love Organics Botanical B Enzyme Cleansing Oil

This is the newest to me and I have to say, I don’t love the smell (it’s a little too fruit-loopy) but the formula is so lovely that I decided to keep it and continue using it. I love that it cleanses without stripping, leaving a balanced pH and moisture barrier. After I apply it to dry skin I add a bit of water and it turns into a soft milk and can be rinsed. For a deeper exfoliation, I apply a damp warm washcloth, wait for it to cool and then remove any residue – such a treat. This one is great for all skin types including sensitive, blemish-prone, combination, normal and particularly mature and dry.

Beautycounter Counter+ Lotus Glow Cleansing Balm

This one is a different formula then the others in that it’s a heavier balm formula! I has a cult following and for good reason – with a blend of lotus extract, jojoba seed oil, and avocado seed oil, it soothes and destresses skin while increasing luminosity. Yes please! I also love that it’s EWG verified. To use, gently massage an almond-sized amount into skin and remove with a warm, damp cloth. This one is great for dry and combo skin and – bonus – it can be used as an overnight mask, on cuticles and even helps with sunburns!

Not sure what’s right for your skin? Fill out this questionnaire and I’ll help you create a customized clean routine that you love. Need help with product application? Check out the handy dandy graphic here.

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